Baie de Stagnolu -> Pinarellu -> Solenzara

Stagnolu Bay. Laura takes off in the dinghy

It was a quiet night with very little wind, and the anchor held. I'm up before the others and just looking around, not wanting to make noise and disturb anyone. Anyway we're in no hurry today as we have plenty of time to get back to Solenzara.

I see a pilot boat go by, and then a few minutes later a big ferry comes in. I was a bit worried about getting shaken up by wash from the ferries, but he is going really slowly, and he's passing about a half-mile away out in the gulf, so there is virtually no wash.

I go through my weather forecast routine: Weather Pro, Wind Guru, Weathertrack, Passage Weather, Meteo France. Having done this for nearly a week, I'm coming to trust the Meteo France marine forecast more than the others. But I still check all of them and try to stick to the "use the least favourable forecast" rule. We've even tried to get the weather forecast from the coastguard on VHF, but either we end up getting a bunch of static, or some Italian fishermen. The mobile phone coverage is definitely better than the VHF coverage here.

It looks like there will be some bad weather moving in on Friday, so we'll return to Solenzara today. That will cut short the sailing by a day, but I was hoping to be able to rent a car to drive up into the mountains anyway.

Eileen and Laura are up and we get breakfast. There is some activity on the beach off our stern, near what looks like a sailing school. Soon a rib is towing a string of 5 or 6 catamarans across the bay. Each little cat has 2 kids on it. Then another rib takes out another group of younger kids in little Optimist-type dinghies. They are all set free from the ribs, spreading out around the bay, and soon the older kids are swarming around us like butterflies, obviously having a blast. The younger ones are unfortunately getting yelled at a lot, as their instructor is something of a drill sergeant. But thankfully they still seem to be enjoying themselves too in spite of him!

After a lazy breakfast we play around in the dinghy for a bit. No swimming though as the water is still too cold. That's one real drawback with coming this early in the season. Eventually we pick up the hook and get on our way. First we head south towards Benedetto, then east along the edge of the channel towards the entrance to the Gulf. We pass between the Pointe de San Ciprianu and the Tourelle Pecorella, exiting the gulf and head north towards Solenzara. After looking at the chart we decide to stop along the way in Pinarellu Bay. There are so many beautiful anchorages along this part of the coast, but we only have time to visit a few of them. A week is too short!

Les Aiguilles de Bavella seen from Pinarellu Bay

Today is something of a repeat of yesterday, with a northeast breeze and a port tack that sends us sailing off in the wrong direction. Eventually we arrive at Pinarellu. The approach to the anchorage is straight forward, just stay between the Ile de Pinarellu and the Ilot Roscana. We head in until we get 7 or 8 metres of depth and drop the anchor.

The hills surrounding this bay have many houses, holiday resorts and hotels but in general I find the construction in Corsica blends in well with the environment. We haven't seen any of the big concrete and glass high-rise hotels that disfigure so many coastal regions of the Mediterranean and elsewhere. There must be enormous pressure from property developers to build such monstrosities here. Hats off to the Corsicans for resisting, and long may it last.

Late lunch on deck. There is a fair bit of activity in the bay, with kayakers heading over to the Ile de Pinarellu, several jet-skis zipping back and forth, and water-skiers. We're even buzzed by joy-riders in a small open motor boat. They wave as they blast by. We wave back. Dylan would not approve.

Next thing we get a visit from two customs guys on a rib. They approach from the stern. We wave. They don't wave back. I'm expecting them to ask to board, but they lose interest and head off elsewhere. Later on we spot a customs cutter shadowing us a few miles offshore as we head north. Eventually it loses interest and heads off elsewhere too. The sky is getting hazy and it's starting to cloud over. Definitely going to be in for some rain tomorrow.

Nice hat!

Raise the anchor and head for Solenzara. We're motoring now with the wind on the nose. It's getting late and we want to reach Solenzara before dark. We call the Cotema office and ask if they can arrange a rental car for us for tomorrow. The lady calls the Hertz office in Solenzara and calls us back. They don't have any cars. We tell her that Xavier said she would probably have to call to Porto Vecchio and they would deliver a car to Solenzara. She calls to Porto Vecchio and calls us back. They don't have any cars either. It's the Easter long weekend and there are no cars to be had. Zut, zut, et re-zut. Well, maybe we'll go out with the boat tomorrow instead.

As we get nearer to the marina, we call Cotema again to find out where we should berth. We'll be on Quay Est, Place 350. Eileen does a few circles in front of the entrance to the marina while I take in the dinghy, put out fenders, and prepare mooring lines.

Quay Est, Solenzara marina

When everything is ready, we motor in slowly. Xavier is waiting on the dock to take our lines. Thankfully we are sheltered from the wind, and the water in the marina is flat calm. Try backing into the spot. Prop walk sends us turning way off course towards other moored boats. Go forward and try again. Same thing. Try again, finally get steerage. Slowly approach spot, backing in, avoid hitting neighboring boat, don't hit quay. Throw a line to Xavier. He calls out about someting at the bow. I leave the helm to check the fenders but the gearbox is not in neutral, and the boat starts creeping forward. I run back to helm and give a blast of reverse, which of course causes the boat to spin sideways. We manage to get stern lines ashore and take a line from the bow to the mooring buoy. Not very pretty, but no damage done!

We tidy up boat and hook up shore power. Eileen has been without battery charging for her Crackberry for two days now, and has had to severely ration useage. She's suffering a bit from withdrawl symptoms. We fill water tank number 1. Tank 1 ran dry today but I couldn't figure out how to get water from tank 2. Does tank 2 really exist? We'll never know.

It's getting late so we walk up into town heading for the third pizza restaurant, the one we haven't tried yet. We start with a refreshing glass of Muscat, then salads and pizza. Laura has ice-cream for desert. Eileen and I are too tired and too full for any desert.

Back in home port!

I'm really happy to have made it back to Solenzara without accident or incident. But we came back a day early to be able to spend a day in the mountains, and it would be a shame to be this close to Bavella and not be able to make it up there. We decide to try the tourist office in the morning. Maybe there is a bus or something. On the way back to the boat we check out their opening hours. Once on the boat we brush our teeth and pass out with exhaustion.

Log entry for Thursday 21/04/2011

Fuel: 7/8

Batteries: 1 (engine) = 14.1; 2 (domestic) = 14.0

Water: Tank 1: 0/4; Tank 2: 4/4

Baro: 1019

Weather forecast: SE F3-4, increasing to F4-5 by evening

From: Baie de Stagnolu; Log 109 @ 13:10

Towards: Golfe de Pinarellu; Log 120 @ 15:45

Fuel: 7/8

Batteries: 1 (engine) = 13.4; 2 (domestic) = 12.7

From: Golfe de Pinarellu; Log 120 @ 17:15

Towards: Solenzara; Log 132 @ 19:30  

Bonifacio -> Rondinara -> Baie de Stagnolu

La Madonetta lighthouse at the entrance to Bonifacio harbour

It would have been great to spend more time in Bonifacio, but the forecast is for strong possibly near-gale force winds in the Strait by evening. We decide to leave early and head back towards the Gulf of Porto Vecchio, where we will be sure to find shelter.

Captain and First Mate are looking forward to returning to the marina in Porto Vecchio, but I have other plans. I want to spend at least one night at anchor, and I've already picked out what should be a sheltered spot in the Gulf. But we won't know for sure until we get closer.

Up early (again!) and preparing to leave. Eileen goes to the small grocery store to stock up on a few grocs first. The night was absolutely quiet and there wasn't a ripple in the harbour, but the wind is already starting to rise. There is much activity around us as the Italians prepare to leave. They seem to be in a group of three boats traveling together. But the big ugly cat and another 50 foot yacht facing each other on the outside of pontoons J and K are blocking their exit.

The 50-footer lets some slack in one of their stern lines and gives a blast of bow thruster to pivot the front out. I realize too late that this would have made it much easier for us to leave as well but we are not ready yet. The big yacht pivots back to the pontoon and the gap closes. It's a tight gap but we're a small boat so it should be doable.

When we're finally ready I let off the stern lines while Eileen lets go of the lazy line at the bow. We go foreward a bit and then a blast of reverse stops forward motion and spins the bow to starboard. This boat has a very pronounced kick to port in reverse, and thank goodness it's favorable for this manoeuvre. We move slowly through the tight gap, with the same three onlookers on the cat (do they sleep there?) plus several others on the yacht watching closely. Still no yelling! We slip through then, oops, watch that stupid buoy! Phew, missed it. Sharp turn to port and we're on our way again.

Cap Pertusato, at the southern tip of Corsica

Once again we motor slowly through the long narrow harbour. And once again I am blown away by the incredible scenery. Outside the harbour we turn to port and stay close to the cliffs for a better look. The Thalassa boats are back out in full force plying up and down the cliff face. Eileen is at the helm while I bring in the fenders, coil and stow the shorelines, and tie the dingy to the stern. There is a good breeze from the east now, so after lingering for a while we eventually hoist the sails and head south. An eye piece falls off the binoculars. These are the cheapest crap binoculars I've ever seen. Oh well, at least they still work.

The jib comes down and the engine comes on as we round Cap Pertusato and approach the beginning of the Piantarella passage.  The wind is from the east, and we are heading east so we'll need the engine for this part of the passage.

When we came through La Piantarella in the other direction, we heeded Xavier's words very carefully: "The plotter is the master". Perhaps too carefully. What I mean is that we spent too much time looking at the plotter, and not enough time looking around at the navigation marks. This made me feel uncomfortable afterwords, because if there had been any kind of malfunction with the plotter, we would have had a hard time staying off the rocks. This time we use a combination of low-tech and high-tech. We use old-fashioned pilotage, align navigation marks, and steer by compass course. As we go along and at every change of course we verify our position on the chart plotter. This combination works perfectly, is more rewarding, and is undoubtedly safer.

Back on the east coast of Corsica now, we're heading north with a northeasterly breeze. We unfurl the sails and kill the engine. For me this is always the best moment aboard a sailboat, when the engine stops and the sails take over. The boat heels, and the only sounds are the wind in the sails and the water on the hull. Bliss.

One of Xavier's top "not to be missed" spots is a bay called Rondinara. It's a sea-shell shaped bay with the entrance at the hinge and a white sandy beach lining the rim. It's surrounded by green pine-covered hills and red rocky outcrops, and there is very little construction on the shore. The wind is E-NE which makes most of the anchorages on the east coast a bit risky for over-night stops. A bit disappointing because I was counting on having sheltered anchorages from the dominant westerly winds that normally blow here. Since we arrived in Corsica we've had pretty much nothing but NE, E, or SE winds! Very unusual, apparently. We decide we'll take a look in and see if we can anchor there for lunch.

Looking around further out to sea we spot the three big Italian yachts from Bonifacio. They must have gone outside the islands, and they seem to have more wind out there. Soon they overtake us and head off into the distance. Towards Rondinara! I hope it won't be crowded in there. Actually I'm more worried that they will take our spot, which is in the northern part of the bay behind the hill at the entrance. In theory that should be the most sheltered spot in these conditions.

Rondinara Bay. Hey, that's our spot!

We eventually arrive at Rondinara, and see the three Italian boats already anchored in the southern part of the bay. Great, the northern part is empty. We prepare the anchor and slow right down as we head towards our chosen spot. Eileen is at the bow, ready to drop the anchor on signal. We're advancing slowly now, when we gently come to a halt? Crap, we've gone aground! Good thing it's a sandy bottom. I give a short blast of reverse, and the boat floats free. Phew!

I was convinced there were 4 metres of water in this spot, and we draw 1.8 metres, so there should have been plenty to spare. I know there is a shallow spot in the middle and stayed on this side to avoid it. I was so absolutely sure of the depth here that I wasn't monitoring the depth sounder. Mistake. We back off a bit and drop the anchor. Looking at different pilot books and charts, they don't quite agree on the depth in this part of the bay, and that should have set off the alarm bells. I should have put Laura on the depth sounder, calling out readings as we approached. Lesson learned.

While we are getting our lunch ready, another small yacht enters the bay. It approaches from the south and makes a big loop ending up at the spot we were aiming for. Lifting keel? Local knowledge? We'll never know. Now, back to lunch, and by the way what's that stink? Four day old Brocciu. Peeew, better finish it today. It's getting late and I want to get past the Pointe de la Ciappa and into the Gulf before the strong winds arrive and before we lose daylight. So we pick up the anchor and head off again.

The plan is to have a look at Stagnolu bay in the northern end of the Gulf of Porto Vecchio. If it's sheltered then we will spend the night anchored there. If not we will continue on to the marina. We're tacking up the coast in a good 10 or 15 knots of breeze, but we seem to be losing a lot of ground on the port tack. "Is that the same bunch of red rocks again?!". I definitely need to polish my sail trimming skills to make better progress to windward.

We come to the entrance to the Gulf of Porto Vecchio. There is a big Bourbon tug waiting at entrance, but we don't see what he is waiting for. It reminds me of a YouTube video of another Bourbon tug, the Abeille Flandre in the Iroise Sea. I hope they are not here to do some filming in bad weather!

Stagnolu Bay in the Gulf of Porto Vecchio. Rocks off our stern!

We pass the green Benedettu lateral mark, but instead of heading southwest towards the marina, we head north into the Baie de Stagnolu. It is well sheltered from the northeast wind just as I had hoped. We head for the 3 metre depth contour in the northeastern part of the bay. Eileen drops the anchor on cue, and we reverse as the chain pays out. We keep an eye on things for a while to make sure the anchor isn't dragging, and then we can relax. 

Well, not completely because there are a bunch of rocks about 150 metres off our stern. And the wind is blowing us in that direction. But there is hardly any wind for the moment and we'll be fine as long as it doesn't blow up during the night.

It's beautiful and calm in this part of the bay, so we plan for dinner on deck. Unfortunately we don't have a cockpit table! We enjoy a lovely pasta dinner off our laps, complete with Corsican wine of course. We listen to birds, watch the odd boat passing in the distance, and enjoy the peace and quite. Finally the tiredness overcomes us and we head for bed. I set an alarm for every three hours, because if the wind rises during the night it could push us on to those rocks off our stern. The night is quiet, and I pop my head out at 02:00 and at 05:00 to take a quick look at the Benedettu and check our distance off the rocks, then crawl back in. 

Eileen and Laura are sleeping in the forecabin tonight, and at one point after checking the anchor I hear a surreal argument: "You poked me with your toe!", "I did not!", "You did so!", "Did not", "Did so", "Didn't", "Did". Then silence. In the morning I think I must have dreamt it...

Log entry for Tuesday 20/04/2011

Fuel: 4/4

Batteries: 1 (engine) = 12.8; 2 (domestic) = 12.5

Water: Tank 1: 1/2; Tank 2: 4/4

Baro: 1016

Weather forecast: East coast: E-SE F2-3, increasing to F4 by evening; Senetosa to Bonifacio: E-SE F4-5 increasing F5-6 by afternoon

From: Bonifacio; Log 77 @ 09:45

Towards: Rondinara; Log 92 @ 13:10

From: Rondinara; Log 92 @ 15:30

Towards: Baie de Stagnolu; Log 109 @ 19:30