Alberoni -> San Francesco del Deserto

We're up at 9:00 after a bit of a disturbed night. But at least we held fast! For breakfast we have bread with marmellato di limone, yoghurt, and tea. Laura has cereal (we actually found goat's milk). We go looking for a few groceries in a shop that we had seen yesterday. There are actually two shops right next to each other. They are both very traditional kind of places, with quite a limited selection but we are able to get the essentials. 

On the way back we spot a gelateria that had been closed yesterday, and won't be open until after we leave this afternoon. Laura is not happy about that. She will have to make do with an industrial ice-cream from the café beside the harbour. 

There are two cafés there, and one is quite a hip looking place, nicely decorated, fancy furniture, trendy music playing. Two people are sitting outside (tourists?). The other one is a bit of a shack. Plastic chairs. Plenty of locals are sitting outside chatting amicably. We go for that one and order caffè lattes and a kit-kat ice-cream thing for Laura. I suppose the customer ratio will be reversed in favour of the hipster place when tourist season is in full swing.

We prepare the boat, undo mooring lines and slip the last one. Wind, tide and a bit of motor push us across the harbour, then drive straight out. Eileen says we have an audience, but they are disappointed this time. No drama.

Lido

 We motor slowly, quietly along the inside of Lido. In contrast to everyone else on the water, we are not in a hurry. Even if we were, this boat can barely get out of it's own way. It's seriously underpowered. But that's okay because the whole canal-boat thing is about the scenery sliding by slowly while you take in the sights, sounds, and smells. It's very relaxing.

Eileen makes sandwiches for lunch and brings them up to the fly bridge. It immediately starts pouring rain. We get wet for a bit, then give in and move below to the inside steering position. We are approaching Porto di Lido now, and there are more and more vaporetti and water taxis going in all directions. The visibility is not too great and as we leave the shelter of the island the water becomes choppy from wind and the wakes of passing boats. 

We're trying to find the entrance to Canal Sant' Erasmo but we've missed it and gone too far. We're approaching Punta Sabbioni. We turn around and go back. With a combination of chart, binocs, and iPhone Navionics we finally find our canal. We snake around the edge of the island of S. Erasmo. At one point a vaporetto pulls out from a stop ahead of us and takes off down the canal. The boat-handling skills of it's driver are very impressive as he hand-brake turns around the tight corners. I'm filled with respect for these professional mariners who are out in all weather conditions, keeping to tight schedules night and day, in narrow canals with heavy traffic and strong currents.

The rain has stopped and we move back to the fly bridge. We're approaching San Francesco del Deserto, where we plan to spend the night. The guide says get there early and take the tour in the morning to avoid the crowds, so by spending the night we should be first in line. 

It's a tiny island with an ancient Franciscan friary. Saint Francis is said to have stayed here at the invitation of a rich Venetian family when he returned from the holy land in 1220. The island was later donated to followers of Francis who founded the friary. 

Bus takes the ferry between the islands

There is one tiny canal that winds it's way into the grounds. It's off limits to the public, but visitors are allowed to moor at the entrance. It looks to be very sheltered inside as we approach, but the wind and tide are blowing the bows off as we get nearer. I can't see anything to tie on to. Once more, Eileen spots mooring rings on the wall on the left side. 

We back up and try the approach again, coming almost straight at the wall this time, then turning away sharply at the last second. It feels like we are going to clobber the wall but we come alongside quite nicely and tie up to the rings. We decide to shift the boat in a bit further to get more shelter. 

Once the boat is safely tied up we break for an apéritif. A sign at the entrance says "Closed Monday, no picnics, no sun bathing, no swimming, appropriate attire". Like St. Peter's in Rome, I say to Eileen. Like the casino in Monaco she says to me! Visits are from 09:00-11:00 and 15:00-17:00. There is no charge for the visit, but donations are gratefully accepted. No sign of any monks, but Eileen thought she saw a curtain move in a window.

It's so calm and peaceful here after that slightly wild crossing of Porto di Lido. There are birds singing, fish, and crabs. A flock of French kayakers come in, turn around, and go again. Eileen overhears one of them say "Next year, we're going to rent a boat like that". Laura decides she wants to start "Crab Watching" tours. It's true that she has a natural talent as a crab-spotter! 

San Francesco del Deserto

Once in a while fishermen come by in little boats dropping small pots or lines. A man goes by on the other side with a strimmer. We have a quiet dinner, then a few games of Go Fish and Scrabble. Eileen gets "winters" for 96 points. 

Laura wonders if the monks would be willing to exchange something for a gelato. Or maybe they don't eat gelato. Maybe they only eat bread and water. Or pasta (no sauce) and water? Eileen hears a mosquito. The hunt is on... Swat. Laura sees another! Swat! And another!! Swat! A quiet night is had by all.


Log Entry for Monday 6 May 2013:
From: Alberoni (depart 13:00) Towards: S. Francesco del Deserto (arrive 16:00)

Tides
▲ 0955 0.7m
▼ 1520 0.3m
▲ 2140 1.0m
▼ 0425 0.1m

Baro: 1015 hPa
Wind: 8 kn gusting to 12 kn
Temps: Low 13° High 21°
30% chance of showers forecast between 14:00 and 23:00

Engine hours: 545.6 - 548.9
Water: 3/4
Battery (12V): 12.5
Battery (24V): 25