Camaret-sur-Mer -> Roscanvel -> Brest

Ile des Morts

Today the forecast is for better weather, before getting worse again tomorrow. So Richard wants to get back inside the Rade. Then if it's not too bad tomorrow we could try to sail up the Aulne River which flows into the northeast part of the bay. 

We're up early to make the most of the good weather. Breakfast, then washing up, then get our gear on.

We head out of the marina and cross Camaret Bay in moderate seas and F4-5 wind. Eileen takes the helm. She's at the tiller for most of the way across the bay, but as we get nearer the Goulet the sea gets bigger and more confused and we start surfing down waves. Steering the boat becomes hard work, and Richard asks me to take over. Eileen's arm is getting tired from sawing the tiller back and forth over the waves. 

The tide through the strait has already turned and is starting to flow against us now, so we stay in close to the southern shore to avoid the strongest of the current and maybe even benefit from some back-eddies. This strategy also has the benefit of giving us good views of the many fortifications that line the cliffs along the edge of the entrance to the bay. Brest has been a naval base for hundreds of years, and the fleet of ships that sheltered here required protection from attacks by the English, Spanish and Dutch. Many a cannonball must have flown through the air over our heads. Even the Germans used Brest as a naval base during WWII and added heavy concrete gun batteries to the edges of the cliffs. 

Roscanvel

As we pass the Pointe des Espagnoles we get some shelter from the Presqu'ile de Roscanvel and the wind dies down a bit. The clouds are breaking up and the sun starts to peak through. Richard says that we will have to be careful of a rock off the Pointe des Espagnoles, and then decides we should pass inside of it. That wouldn't normally be a problem as there is enough depth of water and the passage is wide enough, but the tidal stream boiling through here can add a lot of excitement to the maneuver. Large vortexes of water are swirling around. Richard says that if he is taking Yachtmaster candidates through here he often throws a surprise man overboard exercise into the mix to really spice things up! You have been warned...

Figure of 8 around the islands!

Once through the gap we unfurl the genoa and stop the engine. Bliss! We're on a beam reach heading towards the islands in Roscanvel Bay. Richard suggests that I take over as skipper and sail us a figure of eight around Île des Morts and Île Trébéron! So much for my relaxation. I quickly hop down the companionway for a good look at the chart. Back up on deck for some advice from Richard and we have a plan. We'll pass through the centre of the two islands, turn to starboard and sail around Ile des Morts then pass back through the centre and turn to port around Trébéron. 

There is a good breeze and the water is flat so we are making very good speed. The islands are approaching and we see an impressive looking old gaff-rigger. We're next to the Île Longue French nuclear submarine base. Trébéron was a quarantine for lepers in the 1700s, and Île des Morts (Island of the Dead) was it's cemetery. At least they didn't die in a shipwreck! 

In the 1800s, Île des Morts was converted to a gunpowder magazine for the arsenal at Brest. It was finally decommissioned in the 1960s but remains closed to the public. As we turn to pass between the islands a second time we delay gybing until quite close to the gaffer, which is at anchor now. "Head straight for them!" says Richard mischievously. And we do ;-)

Tack when the destination is over your shoulder (90 to 100 degrees). Richard wants to try to lasso a mooring buoy at Roscanvel and do some dinghy practice. We miss the chosen buoy on the first attempt, but manage to pick it up on the second try. Time for lunch. Big black clouds are heading in from the west, bringing wind and rain. A good time to take a break. The shower passes quickly, and now it's time to do some rowing in the dinghy. 

We each take to the dinghy and do a round of the boat. Laura is enjoying herself so much that she does a few extra rounds! Then we take the dinghy and head for the slipway on the shore. Hum, three in a two person dinghy, feels a bit dodgy! Well, more like two and a half and besides the weather is improving. There is lovely warm sunshine and we are in a nice sheltered spot. We walk along the shore exploring rock pools for a bit and then head back to the boat. Richard is waiting, and we have more work to do. Man overboard practice is next on the agenda. We do several repetitions:

DOB procedure (Dan Over Board): 

• Shout "Man Overboard".
• Get someone to point at the casualty.
• Throw horseshoe, danbuoy, etc. overboard.
• Hit MOB button on chart plotter.
• Send VHF Mayday.
• Head off on a beam reach for 3 boat-lengths.
• Warn crew then tack sharply, furling the genoa. Center the mainsail.
• Check for lines in the water.
• Start engine.
• Approach up-wind of casualty and drift down on them in neutral.
• Pick them up at the shrouds.

French warship on exercise

When Richard is finally satisfied that we might possibly be capable of coming back to get him should he fall in, we head for the Chateau Marina in Brest where we will spend the night.

There are naval vessels all around, anchored or heading in different directions. They must be exercising.  I have that strange feeling you get when you are driving along next to a police car. Even though you haven't done anything wrong, you feel guilty for some reason. Are they watching us? Maybe they're listening in on our conversation? Shhhh, quiet...

Thankfully Laura is at the helm, and she's cool as a cucumber. We're running downwind under genoa only. As we get closer to the marina entrance Richard shows me how to take transits to check our leeway. Suddenly the transit thing clicks with me. We're crabbing along sideways, but heading straight for the entrance. Not sure why, but it never came naturally before, but now I really get it. 

100 year old brigantine "Eye of the Wind"

Looking behind us, there are two ferries approaching. Hey, there is a third one coming from over to starboard! They are slightly menacing-looking unpainted aluminium things, and ferries are not known for giving way to leisure sailors. All four of us are converging on the same narrow passage, and although we have a head start, they have more speed. Richard thinks this is funny, us not so much... They are gaining fast, heading for the ferry terminal up the Penfeld River. I take over the helm as we pass the naval port on our left. Richard points to the marina entrance up ahead on the right, between two concrete breakwaters. Impossible to see what's beyond the entrance. Richard describes the marina. We'll have to hang a very sharp right to come in behind the outer breakwater. And just to make it more interesting, he says we're going to sail in! "That'll show the French!"

We sail in through the entrance and drop our sails, then tie up on the pontoon between a very large wooden sailing ship Eye of the Wind and Bernard Stamm's IMOCA 60 Cheminées Poujoulat. Cool! 

Bernard Stamm's Imoca 60 "Cheminées Poujoulat"

We wander along the pontoon for a bit, admiring the boats. Quite a startling contrast, and a serious bit of evolution in boat design and materials. A guy is actually at the top of Bernard Stamm's mast working on the rigging. You would want a good head for heights, that's 30 metres up! 

Laura is more interested in the schools of fish that are swimming between the pontoon and breakwater. Some of them are really big!

Back on the boat to chill out a bit and have a few beers. Richard entertains us with stories about his times aboard sail-training vessels. Eventually we tidy up and head off for dinner. 

From the marina you can see the top of a ship sticking up over the nearby buildings. Richard says it's the Abeille Bourbon, an Emergency Tow Vessel that is stationed in Brest. When the wind rises above Force 5, she heads over to Ushant and stands by there. This puts her closer to the shipping lanes and reduces her response time. I've seen videos of her predecessor, the Abeille Flandre and I'm keen to take a look so we head off in that direction. 

While I'm gawking at this impressive machine it's starting to rain again and the girls are getting hungry, so it's time to look for a restaurant. There are lots of places along the Quai de la Douane, and we finally decide on the Café du Port. We have a very nice meal and then head back to the boat. The Abeille Bourbon is gone, not a good sign weather-wise. Back at the marina, we head over to the loos. I'm sitting on the toilet thinking "the toilet is moving". Did I really drink that much? I didn't think I was that drunk? Suddenly I remember the loos are on a floating pontoon, and it really is moving!  Back to the boat and our lovely sleeping bags. 

The "Abeille Bourbon"

Météo France : Prévisions pour la nuit du 24 avril 2012 au 25 avril 2012 :

Vent s’orientant au secteur sud en première partie de nuit, en fraîchissant 4 à 6 en Manche, 6 à 7 sur la Pointe de Bretagne, puis 7 à 8 sur toute la zone en seconde partie de nuit, et atteignant passagèrement 9 entre le Raz et Penmarc'h.

Mer agitée, devenant forte à très forte, localement grosse en Iroise.