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Crowded beach on Heir Island! |
Once we're in the middle of the harbour we raise the main. I want to sail a bit in the harbour first, knowing that we'll probably be motoring into a headwind all the way to Heir. We immediately take in a reef, but the wind is gusting strongly so we decide to take in another while we're at it. We bear away and sail a bit, but the boat is still heeling quite a bit and Laura isn't happy. Eileen is not too thrilled either, so we furl the main entirely and head out into the sound.
We're motoring slowly against the wind and a bit of incoming tide. There are two open keelboats ahead of us, stubbornly short tacking up the narrow channel. They must either be racers or a sailing school, as no one else would be crazy enough to torture themselves like that! We keep back so as not to get in their way. And it's interesting to watch their heroic struggle against the elements. You really need to know where the rocks are to go to the edges of the channel like that.
We identify the Catalogues and head for them. When the low hill at the east of Heir is at 300° we head across. There is a convenient house near that spot and we use it as a target to steer towards. When we get near the shore we head southwest, running down along the shore. This area is marked as an anchorage on the chart, but I'd like to get a bit closer to the beach. It's quite congested with many ribs anchored off the beach, but the stretch in front of us is clear.
We furl the staysail, pull up the centre plate, prepare the anchor for deployment and head directly towards the beach. I'm at the bow with the anchor while Eileen and Laura are at the helm, advancing slowly and watching the depth sounder. When it gets to about 1.5 metres I drop the anchor, they shift the engine into neutral, and we start drifting back. There are a few boats moored near a pier behind us, so we'll need to keep an eye on them. We're also keeping an eye on the rocks on our port side, but the tide is rising and the rocks are covering quickly. The moored boats are directly behind us now, but are we still drifting back? There is a bit of wind coming down off the hills, a rising tide and swirling currents. All the boats near us are reacting differently. Sometimes we're closer to them, sometimes we're farther away. Eventually we give in and decide we're not dragging and get some lunch.
After lunch we row ashore. We head for the corner of the beach, but as we get closer we discover a lot of scum at the water's edge and bit of a stink. We soon discover why, as there is a sewer outlet in this corner. So we paddle south a bit and come ashore near the middle of the beach, carrying the dinghy up above the high water mark. Next time we'll anchor on the south side and closer in. We could have easily come right up to the beach on the rising tide.
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Walking on Heir Island |
There is an electric piano at the back of the gallery, and a young man is there playing. We'll have to get Laura to play something! She resists as usual, but once the others leave she gives in and plays a few pieces for us. Very pleasant to have a private concert in an art gallery on an island!
Eventually the proprietor/restauranteur/artist wanders in and joins the audience. When Laura has finished playing we chat a bit, and he tells us that things have calmed down a lot since the heady days of the Celtic Tiger when you had to book a year in advance to get a table in the restaurant.
We wander off down towards the pier. The beach was crowded, but the rest of the island is peaceful and quiet. We stroll along, enjoying the views and sniffing the wild roses along the roadside. Soon we're at the pier, which is equally quiet. There are a few small open fishing boats moored near by, a few rusty old cars, and three elderly ladies sitting in a "bus shelter" waiting for the next ferry to the mainland.
It's getting late and it's starting to cloud over so we decide to head back. The kids and sunbathers and ribs are all gone, but Boaty is still there, right where we left her! We row out, weigh anchor, and motor out of the little bay, hoisting the staysail as we head back towards Baltimore. The Cape ferry is approaching in the distance, but he takes the inside route between Sandy and Sherkin. We enter the Sound with a bit of wind from astern. Maybe we could put up a bit more sail? No, Laura is happy in a "slow boat". Other boats are overtaking us as we toddle along. A big old wooden sailboat passes by under genoa, with a friendly wave from the single-handed skipper.
We're nearly in the harbour now but it's getting very late and we're all starting to get cold. At this rate it'll take us another half an hour to reach the mooring. I give up and start the engine. We motor across and catch the mooring buoy, tie up, stow the sails and tidy up. Another successful adventure! We retire to the Jolie Brise for a much-deserved pizza.
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Anchored off Heir Island |
It's not easy to juggle the balancing act between family commitments, farming duties, non-boating activities, and my desire to spend a maximum amount of time sailing. Throw in some incredibly unpredictable weather and things get really complicated. But I think we were pretty close to getting it right. And I'm working hard on cultivating a laid-back West Cork "sure, no bother" attitude!
Logbook
Logbook
Thursday, 30/07/2015
Baltimore to Heir Island
R, E, & L
7 miles. Late start, and after a calm morning the 8 gusting 12 forecast ends up 12 gusting 17, sunny but cool. Staysail and motoring. Anchor off beach, row ashore. Return under staysail only.